![]() The greatest advances in cooking and taste barely trickle out from the 40-seat dining rooms of the world’s top restaurants, let alone make an impact upon the human relationship with food. Since its birth in the late 19th century, haute cuisine has had little impact on what most of the planet eats. Printed on it was a quote: “The only difference between a madman and me is that I am not mad.” “I want to make it disappear, I want to make it reappear, I want to make the utensils edible, I want to make the plates, the table, the chairs, edible.” A large photograph of Salvador Dalí hung over the stairwell leading down to Moto’s basement kitchen. “I want to make food float,” Cantu told the New York Times in 2005. You were eating the food of chef Homaro Cantu and normal rules no longer applied.Ĭantu wanted to change what it meant to go to a restaurant – to reimagine how you were served, how you interacted with food, what could and could not be eaten. Your ice-cream would be piping hot your caramel apple would be made from pork belly your table candle would be poured all over your clam bake. The gristle was made from confit duck and the blood from juniper berry sauce. The dish was designed to look repulsive but taste delicious. ![]() If you balked at the sight of the gore and guts, that was just what the chefs wanted. After that, a plate apparently splattered with roadkill would arrive. Next to emerge would be a tumbler containing butter-poached lobster tail resting on a spoon, with creme fraiche, trout roe and carbonated grapes that would fizz in your mouth like soda. ![]() It tasted the only way it could: like sesame, avocado, cucumber and crab sticks. The photograph was made of rice paper and coated in a dust of nori seaweed and soy sauce. When you finished your menu, you would be handed what looked like a Polaroid of a maki roll. At Moto, your first course was your menu itself, which was typically printed in edible ink on a giant tortilla chip. ![]() B etween 20, the most inventive food on the planet, possibly in history, came out of a small restaurant in downtown Chicago. ![]()
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